I've taken multiple paid tours and highly recommend them. But there are drawbacks. They run on a schedule. You are expected to ride, but they probably have flexibility in the sag wagon for contingencies. Weather becomes a factor. Rain or light fog is not an excuse to pack it in. And if there is a situation, then you move on to the next day's ride, missing out a day. Self-sagging, with cyclists taking their turns as driver, means some part of the ride is foregone. Having a designated, dedicated sag driver is optimal (I don't even discuss going without a sag of some sort, that's for the serious cyclists).
Last year, or maybe the year before, I mentioned to Marilane I'd like to try it again. I had in mind she being my sag driver and also enjoying time in the mountains. It is a very scenic drive and several of the lodges were excellent places to stay. Our complete 2020 travel agenda, worked out last year, included a trip to France and England, Marilane taking a course at Notre Dame University, the Blue Ridge, and a Christmas trip to England. Covid knocked out overseas and Notre Dame, and put the Blue Ridge in serious doubt.
As July crept closer and cabin-fever started closing in around us, we explored getting out of the house with a weekend trip to College Station. That went well. We decided we could safely undertake the trip. First to Maryland to see family, then start in Front Royal, Virginia on Skyline Drive. Let me get Covid out of the way first. Except where noted, everywhere we went folks were wearing masks and taking all the proper precautions. All accommodations were following prescribed procedures. All in all, we were satisfied that exposure was minimal.
We're not strangers to just me doing a solo with Marilane as sag driver. And if it's one thing we learned about cycling in the mountains, it's that the weather is variable, or perhaps perverse would be the more apt description. We packed rain gear and chilly weather gear along with anticipated nice weather clothes. My plan called for ten biking days so I packed eleven kits in a separate bag. While I have thirty jerseys, any more than eleven shorts would take me into skin suits or threadbare shorts that I only wear on the trainer in the kitchen. We packed five days stuff into small suitcases to make it easier going into our lodging and would replace periodically. Speaking of lodging, previously we would book all our stays in advance. With so much up in the air, we took it a day or two at a time.
A big change in transportation involved my bike. We'd purchased the Rav4 specifically so that I could remove the front wheel of the bike, then utilize a bike rack inside to stand the bike up. Marilane's new car did not accommodate this arrangement. I purchased a bike covering and removed both wheels and installed the bike in the back seat.
While we were willing to expose ourselves to the outside world, we were going to take as many precautions as we could. The plan called for lunch picnics in rest areas while traveling and in our rooms or outside when in lodging. Marilane brought along our small rice cooker to prepare some dinners in our room. We've found that rice, black beans, and Rotel tomatoes cook up a very satisfying meal. Soup or some leftovers can also be heated up when a microwave isn't available.
It took two and a half days to get to Maryland and one and a half days to visit. This was a Covid visit: short, social distanced or masked, not staying too long. On Friday morning we left Frederick, Maryland for Front Royal, Virginia and the beginning of this adventure.
Skyline Drive is 105.5 miles long and Big Meadow Lodge is halfway. Marilane probably would have enjoyed the Harry F. Byrd Visitor Center, but it was closed due to Covid, as were most of the tourist stops. Here in the mountains I had 72° with a slight wind behind me. That was good, because the first thirteen miles climbed up hill. I saw a lot of 5-6% to start, then it moved to a lot of 8%. My plan of holding 80 rpm went out the window in a hurry. I was working hard, and breathing got ragged at 125 bpm even though at home I could hold that for hours. The myriad overlooks provided a safe stop and a view. Occasionally I'd snap a picture.
My plan of doing 52 miles went out the window; I was out of gas at 34.4, only three and a half hours of riding. This came as a total shock to me. Even though I held to the plan of averaging 10 mph, not having the energy to pedal for five hours never crossed my mind. Again, I refer to my palmares as outlined in
Gotta Go! Cycling Vacations in Fantastic Locations. Marilane was at an overlook at the top of the hill and transported me to Big Meadows. The lodge was built in 1939 and has rooms in the main building as well as detached small cabins. I categorize our cabin as rustic, with average amenities. By the way, there is no television and no internet here. I slept well. We had lunch and Marilane gave me a needed pep talk as we relaxed on the veranda. We had a nice dinner with seating outside.
It became readily apparent that we would be doing extra driving and extra lodging since I couldn't hit my mileage marks. The plan was to cycle ten days, with a day off in Little Switzerland. But that had two 70-mile days and four 60+mile days. I wasn't able to make up mileage on day two (but I didn't lose any additional), so we extended our stay in Waynesboro an extra day. That meant Marilane had to drive me back seventeen miles to where I stopped, and for day three I finished off Skyline Drive and started Blue Ridge Parkway (BRP). I made up four of the seventeen miles and was transported back to Waynesboro. We utilize Hilton properties whenever possible to keep all our points in one place. In Waynesboro stayed at the Hampton Inn. The motel right off the parkway had closed.
On day four I made up another four miles, mainly because I'd only planned on doing forty. That brought us to the Peaks of Otter Lodge. Our room had a balcony overlooking a pretty lake, as did the dining room where we had lunch as our main meal. While relaxing in the afternoon we contemplated the next day. The BRP had a road closure that detoured us off the parkway for twenty-three miles. This was a bother, but because it cut off another thirteen mile climb on a busy road, I was pleased as punch. I did twenty-seven miles early, put the bike in the car for the portage to Adney Gap, and then did an additional twenty-three miles to arrive at the Stonewall B&B. We were early and caught our hostess as she was picking up her mail. She easily made us feel at home. Being somewhat secluded, I just leaned my bike against a wall until the next morning.
Generally, we avoid B&Bs. However Stonewall is quite exceptional with good accommodations and a superior breakfast. It is right on the parkway so eliminates driving into Floyd to stay at the Floyd Hotel. When I went with Black Bear Adventures we stayed at the hotel. It is rather modern in an otherwise not-so-modern town. After settling in at the B&B, Marilane and I drove into Floyd to wander the downtown and find a place for dinner. Eating options were limited, like El Charro was the only one open. In the past I'd avoid Mexican food before heavy exercise because I never performed well. Be that as it may, I enjoyed the meal and had no ill-effects the next day.
B&Bs hardly ever have breakfast early enough for me to get out on the road at 7:30. However, it was a very nice breakfast at 8:00. The Covid requirements really taxed the hostess. There was one other couple staying here and they served themselves first, then the utensils they touched were replaced with clean ones for Marilane and me, and replaced again for the hostess. The other couple went back for seconds and used "their" utensils. We were seated maybe ten feet apart. Without rushing through it, I was still on the road at 8:45. Five miles into the ride I hit the only real climb, five-miles. I had no difficulty, although there were a couple of 9-10% ramps. The rest of the forty-three miles were minor rollers and I rolled on up to the Fancy Gap Motel. This facility has campgrounds, trailer hook-ups, cabins, and the eight-room motel buildings.
My adjusted daily mileage resulted in us having some trepidation on booking this lodging. We reserved it for one night and the Stations Inn in Laurel Springs for the following night. The Stations Inn caters to motorcyclists, but is the only place to stay in the vicinity. As it turned out, Fancy Gap was very clean, had a microwave and refrigerator, and we could relax on the porch and have a view of the parkway and mountains in the distance. The owners were most accommodating. This was a very pleasant surprise. Marilane went out foraging for dinner and found the Pit Stop, a very nice Italian restaurant with a varied menu. The calzone she brought me was excellent and we sat on the porch and enjoyed our dinner. There were no others at the motel.
An unpleasant surprise came the next morning. I looked out early and could barely see the parkway a hundred yards away. I looked out a little later and could barely see to the end of the porch. After much discussion, plus the fog lifting around noon, we decided to stay here two nights, cancel the Stations Inn, and I'd ride to Laurel Springs in the afternoon. Marilane picked me up and drove back to Fancy Gap. The next morning we drove to Laurel Springs and I continued my cycling.
My afternoon ride to Laurel Springs brought me into North Carolina and some smoother road surface. For the whole ride I had a slight wind at my back; each afternoon was a chance of thunderstorms that as yet hadn't materialized. The next day the smooth asphalt ran out and the climbing returned. ~Forty-four miles, four hours, and just shy of 5,000 feet of ascent in six climbs. We once again altered the original plan. I'd wanted to book the upscale Chetola Lodge in Blowing Rock but it was full, so we opted for the Hampton Inn in Boone (home of Appalachian State for those familiar with small college football). And, since I was on adjusted mileage, we were there for two nights.
I took the next day off, giving my legs a much needed rest. We took advantage of their laundry facilities and washed some clothes. We washed bike kits since it was turning out that I'd be cycling twelve days rather than ten.
Again, because of the adjusted daily mileage, I had a relatively easy day getting to the Little Switzerland Inn. One of the most scenic vistas is from the Linn Cove Viaduct. The first time I rode across it, I took a quick glance, saw it was spectacular, and decided to stop at the overlook. Surprise!! There is no overlook. But there are signs indicating it is illegal to stop on the Viaduct. Bummer. This time it was overcast so I just kept cruising. There is also a Linn Cove Visitors Center. Covid closed. This two-day stop was actually planned. My legs had been suffering since day one, and I had a massage scheduled for my off-day. The inn has a really nice view, outside seating, and really good food. Our room had a balcony with the same view, just from a higher vantage point.
From Little Switzerland to the end at Cherokee is 124 miles (not counting the ten mile side trip up and down Mount Mitchell). What is usually quite doable is riding sixty-four to the Pisgah Inn then sixty-two to the end. Alternatively you could do a shorter ride into Asheville and a longer ride to the end. What we did upon leaving Little Switzerland was do forty-three miles and stayed in Asheville, this time at a Hilton Garden Inn. This particular day's riding included the best ever downhill. Brand new, smooth asphalt for ten miles. No need to touch the brakes on the curves. Over 30 mph in the tuck position, high 20's when sitting up, no need to pedal other than to keep the legs loose.
The Pisgah Inn was booked solid, so we held our breath and booked the Grand Old Lady Hotel, which recently changed its name from Balsam Mountain Inn. This worked out better for me. The next day I had another ten miles of smooth asphalt getting around Asheville. But soon enough I was back on chip seal and facing another thirteen mile climb. This was followed shortly thereafter by a four mile climb. I ended up climbing just three feet short of 6,000. Scattered thunderstorms were forecast and I could see dark clouds forming. As it turned out, as I was climbing the four mile ascent, about a mile behind me folks were getting drenched in a downpour. Marilane picked me up and we drove to the Grand Old Lady Hotel in Balsam.
The hotel was a pleasant surprise. While there were few guests here mid-week, and truthfully we were again in the middle of nowhere, we had a nice stay. The hosts greeted us, had us sign in with a lot of Covid paperwork, and showed us to our room. Once we settled in we returned to the front porch to rock and enjoyed a complimentary glass of wine. The glass was also complimentary. We again utilized the rice cooker for dinner.
